Day 050: 03/07/12

Snowmobiling in Yellowstone: We Thought We Knew

Written By: Blair Waller

Photos By: Jake Johnston

We’ve taken many trips to Yellowstone during the summer. But after this recent winter visit, escorted by Rocky Mountain Snowmobile Tours, we uncovered a seemingly new park altogether. Bundle up and start your engines.

My friends and I arrived at the Rocky Mountain Snowmobile Tours headquarters at 6:30 am. We were greeted warmly by the staff and offered a spot at their breakfast buffet (included in the price of the trip). They said it was a continental breakfast but it was far superior – biscuits and gravy, for example. Such a spread was a necessary precursor for a long day in Yellowstone National Park.

After being introduced to our guide, Nick Anderson, we were fitted and suited in their more-than-ample gear: heavy full body suits, helmets, gloves and boots. They recommend wearing what you would normally wear in 0 degree weather under the suit (long johns, pants, synthetic shirts, scarves, hats and jackets). Two items that are often overlooked are neck gators and goggles – be sure to bring both. With that, we loaded into the van and headed to Flagg Ranch, an hour and a half commute.

Upon arrival, we were introduced to our vessels for the excursion: near new, top-of-the-line Ski-Doo snowmobiles. Thus, we saddled and lined up 7 strong and revved our respective motors. I’m not going to lie, it was a bit disorienting at first. You feel like you have much less control than you would on a bike or motorcycle, as the front skis find their way into the various, previously-laid tracks. The handlebars shift left and right continuously as a result. It took us the first stretch to succumb to the lessening of complete control and trust in the machine.

The fleet of snowmobiles at Flagg Ranch. While the figure varies throughout the winter, at this time, only 19 permits are issued per day. So, you can expect to see a maximum of 18 other snowmobilers (including guides) during the trip.

Making the obligatory stop at the Yellowstone sign and Lewis Falls allowed us to adjust our gear as necessary. Fortunately, the weather could not have been more perfect. The sun was present although covered slightly by a light snowy haze that fell like tiny crystals. Very little wind blew throughout the day that was warmly welcomed as we certainly were getting our share of breeze while riding.

Tactfully, we arrived at Old Faithful around 11 am therefore beating the crowd. We had lunch at the inn (burgers, fries, hot dogs, salads – also included in the price) and then walked out the geyser and awaited the show. It was interesting being in a crowd of 20 tourists as opposed to the 400 that is typical during the summer. It was a far more serene and intimate experience. After unloading 8,500 gallons of the earth’s water, Old Faithful slowed and we were off to what I believe to be the more exciting areas of the park.

Besides the fact that you’re sharing the park with maybe 100 others instead of thousands that frequent during the summer, another aspect that made this winter trip unique was the transport. Instead of loading up in your car and fighting traffic, you’re hopping on a snowmobile and thrashing through the wilderness at speeds up to 45 mph. The journey between the stops can be just as exciting as the stops themselves. The fun runs the wire end to end.

We arrived at Biscuit Basin and were greeted by a herd of nearby buffalo. Picturesque. Then came the thermal features that, again, painted a different picture when compared to summer. The heat and steam from the pool spar with the cold and crystal snow. Each pool is lined with varying depths of snow depending on the exact nature and path of the boiling water. The scene was so riveting, some members of the group felt compelled to throw running ‘heel clicks’. It was that kind of afternoon.

Clockwise from top: a) Bison graze the river bank near Biscuit Basin b) All that is Old Faithful c) Thanks to innovative technology, we know this hot pool is 149 degrees d) Touring the boardwalk amidst the walls of steam at West Thumb.

Next was Kepler Cascades, a waterfall on the Firehole River. As the name accurately implies, the cascades drop a combined 150 feet over multiple descents. There’s no place like Yellowstone when it comes to waterfalls.

As we approach the West Thumb section of this account, I must speak on behalf of our guide, Nick. Now, my expectation was that our guide would simply be a snowmobile enthusiast who would merely lead us to the threshold of the sites and let us do our own thing. True, Nick is a snowmobile enthusiast, but he also proved to be a knowledgeable Yellowstone tour guide, certainly on par with those that do only that. He was well versed on the park’s history, the geologic intricacies and the patterns and behaviors of the wildlife. He even had a handheld thermometer that showed us the temperature of each respective pool. I did not expect to learn as much as I did on this snowmobile excursion. The educational aspect, I believe, was the value-add.

The final stop, Buffalo Falls, furnished the most unexpected of pleasures. To reach the primary viewpoint, we slid down a natural snow slide that had it all – twists, turns, slight drop offs and an extended, gradual finish. Many of us did it twice. The falls weren’t half bad either as we watched the rush from the base.

We ensured the release of our last ya-ya’s on the final stretch back to Flagg Ranch, where we cracked a beer, reminisced and even danced a little. Upon discussion during the van trip back, the collective sentiment was this: The day cracked the top 5 of all time, Yellowstone in the winter is a different ballgame altogether, snowmobiling is addictive, Nick is the Man and Rocky Mountain does it right.

For more info about Rocky Mountain Snowmobile Tours and to book your excursion, visit: www.snowmobiletours.net

Clockwise from top: a) Welcome to Yellowstone National Park b) The crew gears up before taking off c) Nick bestows wisdom upon the group at a fumarole at West Thumb d) The secluded Buffalo Falls at the base of “the slide” e) Like something out of a Robert Frost poem, a picturesque bridge adjacent to Buffalo Falls f) The view from above Cascade Falls.

At Biscuit Basin: Happiness in the form of a ‘heel click’