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Straight Ahead to Straight Down

29 Hours of Hiking and Waterfalls in the Yellowstone Backcountry

 

 

Words and photography by Blair Waller

falls yellowstone jackson hole grand teton the mountain pulse blair waller

A map was slapped on the counter on a Wednesday at work. The map displayed the remote southwest corner of Yellowstone. The man with the proposal, Bo Elledge, asked, “Plans this weekend?” With mere weeks left in the Jackson summer, who was I to decline? With that, we bolted dodge at 3:30 PM Saturday, headed for my inaugural backpacking excursion.

Dunanda Falls – An inspiring natural phenomenon in the national park
 

As with any first time experience, there will be setbacks. The first of which came as we attempted to make it the Backcountry office to obtain our backpacking permit. The office closed at 4:30 PM and, yes, we were tardy. As a result, we camped out at Lewis Lake, primed to hit the office first thing the following morning. We did so and made it the Cave Falls Trailhead by noon Sunday.

The first leg of the trip saw us traipsing through seemingly even-spaced lodge pole pine trees. To our right, the slick rustle of both Cave and Bechler Falls, as well as the in between white capped waters, provided a serene soundtrack. Bechler Meadows followed, where we found ourselves suddenly small amidst the miles of yellow grain. After a few more miles (15 in all from the start) and bridges, we arrived at our destination: Dunanda Falls.

Dunanda, Shoshone for “straight down”, drops 150 feet. At the base lies a thermal hot spring where we soaked under the mist of the falls. Naturally, we crashed soon afterwards at our nearby camp site. The morning yielded yet another dip in the spring (and why the hell not?) before a short hike to the aptly named Silver Scarf Falls. This cascading beauty mingles with a series of thermal spots (not for swimming but aesthetically pleasing). Not the waterfall supernova of Dunanda but uniquely striking.

 
yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand teton

The trip back (a different route than the one there) was less a couple bridges. Changing footwear was a must as we crossed, treading waist deep, packs overhead. Yet another obstacle hit us in the mouth as our water purifier somehow broke. Less conversation was one result over the last 4 miles or so. Needless to say, the water pump at the Bechler Ranger Station was a beacon of life. This was crucial for the last leg (approximately 3 miles) back to the car at Cave Falls.

The denouement of the trip was fitting. We skirted along the edge of a thunderstorm as we rode through the rolling Idaho farmlands. It was an impromptu weekend for the books. In summation, if you dig waterfalls, hot springs, solitude and a bit of a challenge – do Dunanda.

 

The Adventure in Photos

blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

The sun sets over a tranquil Lewis Lake.

blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

A Yellowstone Barbeque

blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

Sparks, flames, fire and fun.

 
blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

A thermal stream converges with Boundary Creek.

bechler falls yellowstone backcountry camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand teton

The view of Bechler Falls.

blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

The spa in Yellowstone.

 
blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

Word to the wise.. string up everything with a scent 100 yards from your tent.

blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

Timeout at the fork.

blair waller yellowstone camping the mountain pulse jackson hole grand targhee

A trip worth the view.

 

 
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